Lofoten and Bodø with friends

There are certain people in life, with whom everything seems fine and fair. It feels like we can do things out of our comfort zone for them and with them. This is a trip with that kind of people. 

Each year, during winter I feel like I should escape the darkness of these winters. The winters in Norway are harsh: icy and dark. It is pretty covered with all the snow and northern-lights-lit skies, still, the dark coldness can get to one's bones. So, my friends from college planned a winter trip to one of the incredibly dark and pretty places here in Norway: Lofoten.

A panorama of Reine during the afternoon: the darkness prevails

So we spent New Year in Oslo and roamed around in Oslo before we left for the north. We took a flight to Bodø and had the ferry from Bodø to Lofoten that day itself. Now mind you, this is a trip made by all students. So we were very tight on the budget. The flights were quite cheap and surprisingly, the ferry was a vessel carrying the cars and buses to the islands, so it was free of charge for the passengers without any vehicle! So far so good!

The village Reine in the "daytime"

Cut to the second half of the ferry when we realised that because of a storm all the public transport and the taxi service are not working. So, then the hunt for a lift started. We booked an Airbnb in a small fishing village called Reine, which is 5 km from the ferry stop called Å. We thought it is just 5km, and we could walk in the worst-case scenario. We asked around to the fellow passengers on the ferry if they could drop us off nearby if it is suitable for them, but it is the period just after the pandemic it was not very easy for them to decide. 

Finally, we got some help from an angel sent by the universe. He said that he could drop three of us off. We thought, we can take all the luggage with the car and the rest three people could walk by then. But the angel just offered that he could take two trips to drop off all 6 of us at the Airbnb. He said that in the times when he visited other countries and had times like these, locals there had helped him and this is his way of paying back to the universe. So whenever we find someone whom we could help, we can pay back our debts to the universe in our own time. Hence, the holidays started on a very warm note.

Lofoten is spanned by this kind of landscape: the fjords of Lofoten

The idea was to just stay at the incredible Airbnb, roam around the island and hunt for the northern lights. But. The sun wasn't very active til the last day, which we will come to at the end, but for the first couple of nights, the hunt was futile.

So all we did was, roam around the serene and out-of-the-world landscapes, cook, eat and do some grocery shopping. This was the theme of our winter trip. We spent quality time together, played board games, played and sang music together and had a very refreshing time.

Another snap from the road trip across Lofoten

One day we went to the southmost point of the island, to Å, another fishing village. We saw some traditional fishing houses and ports and took some photos.

The fisherman's village: Å

The shy sun hardly came up from the horizon!

On another day we went all the way to Leknes. It is the administrative city of the Lofoten islands. It is quite big. It has some shops and restaurants. But the day trip was for none of that. It was for the views. The journey in the bus on the only road on this island is unimaginably beautiful. The winter landscapes are filled with snow and the pinkish hues of the sun. It is something to live for. We ate at a typical Norwegian restaurant and came back. 

Fire in the ocean

The whole time we were in Lofoten, the sun was not very active. Even though we tried to hunt for the northern lights by going to darker spots near our Airbnb, we could not see much of the activity. Everyone who visited from far and was disappointed, but we could not help it. Then on the third day, there was this CME (Coronal Mass Ejection) headed towards the earth which would reach in time for us to see a spectacular show of the aurorae! More on that later!

So, we wrapped up our island visit with hearts full of these golden pink and snowclad landscapes and went back to the mainland with the same ferry. 

The church of Bodø

In Bodø, we had two major attractions. We wanted to visit a church and the whirlpool. The day was weather-wise challenging. It was lightly raining and highly windy with temperatures of -10 degrees. We were tired and cold almost all the time.

The church was as expected: calm, empty, without much flourishing, but it had some Sami parts to it. The Samis are indigenous people to the Nordic countries. This church had some of paintings and rooms dedicated to Sami mythology and stories from that culture. It was very enriching to witness that part of the culture.

Saltstaumen Whirlpool

We took a bus to get to the whirlpool. It is a powerful whirlpool up to 10 m in diameter and 4-5 m deep in the middle of the fjords. The maelstrom occurs when tidal waters flow in and out of the narrow strait connecting the outer Saltenfjord with the Skjerstadfjord. We stood on the bridge which connects the two parts of the mainland and witnessed the spectacular natural phenomenon with chilled winds gushing through our ears and freezing us into a popsicle. The sound of humungous amounts of water mixing and going against the currents just made me realise that humans behave in the same way as water. We make a lot of noise when we see someone trying to go against the flow!

First sighting of the northern lights

Anyhow! After having a small stroll in the city centre and a doughnut each, we went back to our hostel and ordered some pizza. While everyone almost had lost all hope to see aurorae, we still checked the app and voila! The activity was high, thanks to the CME that came towards the earth. We could possibly see some aurorae. So, we ate quickly and just went out into the city on top of a hill to check out our luck.

For the first hour or so, we could not distinguish between the city light pollution and the halo of the northern lights. We were still trying to capture long-time integrated snaps to see if cameras more sensitive than our eyes could see anything and track the activity on the apps which predict the activity. 

A stroke of green

After an hour and a half, we saw the northern lights for the first time! It lasted for a few minutes and vanished again. There was quite a lot of light pollution because of the city lights, but that hill was our best chance. We were happy that we could see something but waited for something more as if we knew that nature has more on its plate.

Trails of the northern lights

After waiting for a couple tens of minutes in the icy weather, the aurorae showed themselves once more, this time for longer. They danced in the North, then moved to the East and eventually just filled up the whole sky. There were trails of green lights, curtains of greens with pink and violet borders and just strokes of green everywhere in the sky.

Curtains of the aurorae

We stayed at the hilltop for quite some time. Few of us were already suffering from the cold and few caught it that night. It was physically demanding to stay on the hilltop, but we were determined. We checked that the temperatures were -22 to -25 degrees Celsius! But nothing could stop us that night from seeing the aurorae.

Finally, a little after midnight we left the hilltop and went back to our warm hostel. We dreamt of the northern lights and the snowclad arctic landscapes that night and many nights to come.

We flew back to Oslo the next morning, and bid goodbyes at the airport where we parted ways, only with the promises to plan the next winter trip even more dreamy and incredible.

Incredible show of northern lights

The movie of the northern lights could be easily captured on the phone: They were really strong.

 

Vestlandet: Picturesque landscapes

This part of Norway is mesmerisingly picturesque! So this travelogue  is just a picture log! I don't want to engage into words for the hypnotising landscapes. Here goes:

On the way to Bergen: in the Bergensbana

Fjords on the way to Bergen

Stave church: One of the very old viking era churches made out of wood. The symmetric structures with curly ends if unique to these churches.

A short hike to Floyen hill

Floyentoppen shows an amazing view of the quaint city Bergen

Cobbled street in Bergen.

Bergen from top!

The Skomakerdiket lake landscape at the top of fløyen hill.

Bryggen: The old business hub from the german era. Just in front of the sea.

Bryggen: Just few minutes apart. The over-shade came sooner!

Bergenhus Fortress, The fort which only fought one battle as the king of Bergen has been a peace loving governor!

Typical Bergen houses from the fortress

Catholic church, Bergen: Johanneskirken

A few landscapes from the Gudvangen-Flåm cruise tour:

Still waters, tiny towns, plenty of waterfalls, onset of colourful autumn and enchanting experience.

Flåm: from the cruise



Flåmsbana

From Flåm to Myrdal by Flåmsbana! Flåmsbana is the world heritage rail line between remote hilly towns which are just 20km apart, with unbelievable natural beauty!

Lysevegen: The famous zigzag road of Norway with 22 turns!


Kjosfossen: The hidden gem on the way from Flåm to myrdal.
Blue-green waters sprinkling the  freshness in the air!


On the way back home.. From Myrdal to Oslo.

Coming back home with heart charged up with nature!

Bonus video of fjords while approaching to Flåm!

The story of unforgettable solo trip to Tromsø

 This year, the new year’s weekend had 5 days. The borders were (and still are) closed. I could go visit someplace else, but then I would have to quarantine after coming back! I wanted to travel and visit someplace beautiful. Also, the sun is getting out of the quiet phase, so there would be a chance to see the northern lights! Decided! I was going to Tromsø. My first fully solo trip! For hunting the northern lights! 

The most spectacular experience of watching aurorae dance on our heads!

There’s a short side story, that I forgot to carry my passport! I realised it after reaching Oslo Airport and I thought that I would just go and see what happens! What else could have I done! The journey started without the passport and a little disappointed voice scolding me constantly in the back of the mind! But she will get around! You will see.

Tromsø: the island city, seen from Fjellheisen

After taking the bus from the airport to the city centre I kept my bag in my cosy Airbnb. The first impression of this small city was that it is pretty laid back and the hosts are amazing. So this day is for the other island. A little info: Norway has over 220 islands. Tromsø city is a collection of islands.

Arctic Catherdral or Ishavskatedralen

The Tromsø bridge connects the two main islands. I walked on that bridge to get to the Arctic cathedral. It is a triangular church built in the late 20th century, looks like the fjords in the area. Fjords are basically long, narrow inlets of the sea with steep sides or cliffs, created by glaciers. The church has beautiful tinted glasses and a  very simple interior. The next destination was Fjellheisen: one of the highest point in Tromsø. They take us there by a cable car and it has an amazing view of the city. This was it for the first day. I had a big day ahead!

The Midday Full Moon shining on the Fjords seen from the cruise 

31st December, this was one of the most memorable days! I started early. Our cruise left the city at 8AM. We were headed to the outer fjords of the Norwegian Sea. This cruise was semi-electric. So it had a diesel engine as well as the electric engine, which does not create much turbulence and pollution.  After going for 2 hours steadily and 10-15 minutes on turbulent waters between the mountains, we reached the open waters where the humpback whales and Orcas would be seen. Obviously, the scenes were stunning. I could not take my eyes off the fjords and cute towns on the islands. We crossed one town with a total population of 7. Yes! 7! Yeah, I should mention. Tromsø is (kind of) second capital of Norway. And the total population of this city, including suburbs, is just 78 thousand.

The first sight of the precious humpback whales was quite surreal. These deep black animals are seen near the crusts of the waves. They come up for breathing and in that process, they make small fountains each time. Their jumps in the water are magnificent. Also, we saw Orcas. These are the wolves in the sea world. The sea birds and sea eagles circle around orcas in order to get food. There are many mythological stories intervened around these animals and sea gods. Being lucky enough to get to experience these amazing phenomena under the full moon was an enchanting experience.

I met a geophysics professor from the University of Bergen during this cruise trip. She has seen these creatures many times and she was guiding us, newbies, to watch these whales. We talked a lot on our way back. She was Australian. She was full of life and she lent some words of advice for an early career researcher like me. She gave me hope. And I think that that was one of the best parts of this trip.

So! I was supposed to go on northern lights trail on the next day. But since the weather conditions and solar activity was better, Northern Soul Adventures asked me if I could shift one day before. So, we left Tromsø centrum at 5:30 in the evening heading to one of the Arctic beaches. The first place we went was very windy and chilly. So we had to go someplace else. But first, we all wore those snowsuit onesies!

Below the dancing Aurorae!

After reaching the less windy beach in the snowclad mountains, where we settled down. Our trip organisers lit a cosy bonfire, took out foldable stools and we faced north awaiting for the lights to show up. It was a full moon night. I spotted some stars and ISS (International Space Station) and some major planets. The organisers gave us some warm soup and the wait continued. At around 8:30, while clicking photos in front of that soothing background, we saw a little tinge of green in long exposure shot. And just like that, everyone got excited! We were very uncertain whether or not would we see any colours. For the past many new year’s eves, they could not see any lights. But I saw the whales and orcas and their dance in the water and I was feeling lucky!

The lights seen have a very fascinating origin! The electrons travelling from the sun as solar winds or coronal mass eruptions are trapped in the magnetic field of the earth and hence they travel to the magnetic poles, where due to saturation they change energy levels emitting light: Aurorae!

With an apparently angry bear

These started as a band like a rainbow and then they started to diversify. The band became thicker and became a sheet. The sheet started to move eventually and voila! We were very lucky to witness the northern lights dance. We clicked many pictures and were completely awestruck to see this rare and unique natural phenomenon. We shouted and jumped and danced and celebrated the last day of this unique year!

We went back to the city after two hours of this auroral dance. We were in time to see the new years fireworks in the city centre. Along with the usual sky flowers and different fireworks, there is this unique way of celebrations in Tromsø. The tradition is that, on the Fjellheisen hill, they would light 2020 in firework and at midnight the fireworks would be converted to 2021! We welcomed 2021 with a very fulfilled heart!

With a swimming seal!

On 1st January most of the places are closed. I find the concept fascinating that the first day of the year, also touted as new beginnings and whatnot, is the day people decide to take a leave. Anyhow, I visited the polar museum, which accounts many expeditions to the north pole and a few trips to the south pole in detail. In the 18th-19th century, bear hunting was a quite popular activity in the arctic and polar summers. So there were many stuffed animals: different kinds of seals, walrus, polar bears, grizzly bears and arctic fox, to name a few. 

Except for some local monuments, this was a rest day. I had a long day before and after!

Next day was a total museum day. First I visited Polaria, a polar aquarium. Where I got to witness seal feeding session. These are very unique animals, with small fins and big bodies. I saw sea urchins, starfish, huge crabs, some sea birds, and these amazing seals!

The sketches of Sami houses

Next destination was Tromsø university museum. There are four sections in this museum. Biology, where evolution is explained in simple illustrations. Also, there are these immigrant animals and how those change the diaspora of the local ecologies. Secondly, there is this geophysics section. The evolution of the earth from the accreting hot sphere is shown and there are some fossils and ores and oils from Norwegian wells with local differences. I saw a short movie about glaciology in that section and moved to the next. In the third section, they have working models to explain northern lights and some simulators for that. I believe that it is a very interactive way of learning. The next section about Sami culture and Viking archaeological findings, I felt at home. For maybe two reasons: firstly, their culture and ethnicity are uprooted from their own land by some external invasion, and more importantly, the basic structures and thought processes in all parts of the world seem to be the same, living near a water source, saving ourselves from external weather and carnivores, finding food and the evolution of arts in flourishing cultures seems a thread going through all olden civilisations!

Chat Noir by the Artiste

Then I visited Perspektive museum, a neoclassical art museum, which was under renovation. So, I could visit only one floor. That gallery was dedicated to a painter who went to Paris to learn the art and came back to Tromsø with her Swedish husband and son, but had a very hard time during WWII, took a journalist job for survival, but always felt that “ink and paper are very restricting medium as compared to her canvas.” Her passion for her work was very inspiring!

Art made of different fabrics and fibres

Next was the Nordnorsk Kunst museum. This is a modern art museum. The theme for presentations this time was 2020! Artists had used different media from fabric, clothes, metals, glass, leather, soil and what not! It was something very different! I tried to go to the WWII museum, which is just a barrack, but it was closed! So I had some food and went to the Tromsø catholic church to see how mass in this place happens. To my surprise, I found it very similar to Hindu rituals! They offered Him water and bread, and after some chanting, the offerings were distributed by the Father.  I called it a day!

Oslo Domkirke with fjords in the background 

On my last day, I first went to the Tromsø Domkirke. Luckily, I got to attend the mass. For the new year, the first mass was like a musical of His birth. I got to interact with some folks there and the Father. They told me that this church is the only church in Norway which is entirely made of wood! The last trip was to the lake called Presvannet. It was totally frozen and people from all age groups were skating on it. Some groups were also playing ice hockey matches on the lake. I walked around the lake and the forest for a while and went back to my Airbnb. 

The landlords were very friendly, I can surely say that my trip was a successful one and I have ticked two items on my bucket list! Solo trip, check! And northern lights, oh yes! Check!

One of the noon clicks of the port near Polaria with outstanding sky